NIHI Sumba Review: Our Honest Review of our Stay at One of the World’s Best Hotels as a Family

We just got back from crossing a big destination off of our bucket list: NIHI Sumba. We flew our two toddlers halfway across the world to a remote Indonesian island a short flight from Bali, to stay at a hotel twice named the best in the world, that has loooong been on my bucket list. This is my honest NIHI Sumba review: it was wild, it was LUXE, and it beat every expectation I had. I’m so excited to get into all the details for you all.

But, first, let’s get one thing straight. Nihi is not for everyone.

and that’s the point.

When you arrive to Sumba, your drive to the resort is an open air safari vehicle with coconuts in hand, bumping along the island roads passing local markets, island fruit stands, wild chickens and cows on the side of the road avoiding the many motorbikes weaving around, and schoolchildren smiling and waving at you like you’re a Hollywood starlet.

Like so many places I love around the world, a trip to Sumba is less about the photos you’ve seen or the expectations you pack with you, and all about how it makes you feel.

Sumba strips you down. “The edge of wildness “ is their slogan, and you feel it. It’s raw, it’s wild. It’s so beautiful. Barefoot, rugged luxury.

Sumba feels like Bali 25 years ago. Before the western world and tourism took its relentless grip on the island, changing it forever. (I still love Bali, and definitely much of the time appreciate the comforts its growth in tourism allows) however, one can’t help but yearn to time travel back to when the Balinese culture hadn’t yet been quite so affected by tourism, when the roads weren’t so crowded, and when you could experience the island just as it was, with no expectation. 

The beach stretches on and on, empty and golden. Out past the shore, the waves roll into Occy’s Left, one of the most famous surf breaks in the world, and NIHI limits how many surfers can ride it each day, making it one of the most exclusive and private-feeling surfing experiences in the world. Each day, beautiful horses run the beach wildly, stopping to swim in the water, and the view takes your breath away. 

Sumba is the kind of place that naturally forces you to slow down. Your phone matters less. Your schedule matters less. You start to notice the sound of the ocean, the spray of the sea, and how happy you, and your kids, are with nothing but sand and sky.

Some people describe it as something like an ‘adult summer camp’ and there is a camp-like quality to the experience that I loved. There are only 31 villas on property, so you see the same people. And everyone has a similar je neux se quoi about them – they’re the type of people that find themselves on this Robinson Crusoe like luxury island. They’re go-with-the-flow. They’re adventurers. 

The remoteness has a way of uniting you. Everyone made the same rugged, wild, far journey to get here, and you’re all sharing the same wild little corner of the world. There’s no restaurant row down the street and no sightseeing to run off to, so the resort becomes your whole world.

By the second morning, you’re recognizing faces at breakfast. By the second evening you’re swapping stories over sunset drinks with people you’d never have met at home. The surfers talk waves, the couples swap honeymoon stories, and the kids find each other the way kids always do, running around in the sand, as wild as the NIHI horses, bubbling with sunkissed, saltwashed joy.

   

It’s the kind of place where you can keep to yourselves if that’s your style, or leave with a whole new circle of travel friends. Kind of like an ultra-luxurious grown-up hostel? The same spirit of adventure and easy socializing, with a private villa, a world-class spa, amazing food and drinks, and impeccable service every part of the day.

NIHI is for discerning travelers who still value the art of travel, not just a vacation. The people who come here want more than a pretty beach and a good tan (even though you’ll get that too! but for only that, there are plenty of easier places to get to in the Caribbean and Hawaii). Travelers coming to NIHI crave a destination that stretches their mind and nudges them out of their comfort zone, but while still having every comfort of a five-star resort. NIHI gives both, and that’s what makes it so special (and so rare!!!)

Kenny’s shirt linked here , Harrison’s linen shirt linked here

What is NIHI Sumba?

• A luxury, top 50 in the world luxury hotel – and a unique travel experience
• Where it’s located: the south-west coast of Sumba, an island in Indonesia east of Bali
• Getting to Sumba: a short flight from Bali to Tambolaka, then about 90 minutes by open-air safari car
• Size of NIHI: 31 villas, every one with a private pool, on 2.5 km of private beach
• All-inclusive concept: three meals a day, non-alcoholic drinks, sunset happy hour, amazing dinner events, airport transfers and plenty of activities
• Kids club: NIHI Wildlings, for ages 4 to 12
• Known for: its gorgeous horse stables (the riding & racquet club), horses running on the beach, the famous Occy’s Left surf break, and the unbelievable Spa Safari
• Best for: adventurous couples, honeymooners and well-traveled families who want a true escape without giving up five-star comfort!!!!!

 

Why NIHI Sumba Is One of the Best Hotels in the World

NIHI is #35 on The World’s 50 Best Hotels list for 2026, after landing at #10 in the world in 2024. It’s also the only hotel to be named Travel + Leisure’s #1 Hotel in the World two years in a row (2016 and 2017).

It earns every bit of these honors. The hotel calls itself “the edge of wildness,” and that is exactly how it feels. The island is raw, tribal, and largely untouched by tourism, and yet the moment you arrive you’re in a private pool villa with a team that makes it feel ultra-safe and ultra-comfortable, even with little kids!

How to Get to NIHI Sumba

It’s not ‘easy’ to get here. That’s the point! From our home in the U.S., getting to Bali alone is 20+ hours of travel, and I still go back every year!!!

From Bali’s Ngurah Rai Airport (DPS), you take a short domestic flight to Tambolaka (TMC) on Sumba. Ours was about 40 minutes in the air. From there, NIHI picks you up in an open-air safari car for the roughly 90-minute drive to the resort, and that drive is an experience in itself. You pass villages, fruit markets and smiling schoolchildren, and zero crowds anywhere.

I was a little worried the inter-island domestic flight from Bali to Sumba would be on a small plane or scary somehow, and I was VERY pleasantly surprised by how nice the transfer from Bali to Tambolaka on Sumba was. It was a big plane (we flew Batik Air) and the NIHI team truly takes such amazing care of you every step of the way – it was so easy!! They even brought our bags through security for us (can they come with me on every trip!?!)

Jetset Tip: The shared safari car transfer is included in your stay, and if you book your Bali flights through NIHI, the domestic airport taxes are included too. Private transfers can be arranged depending on availability. I also recommend pairing NIHI with a few nights in Bali on either end so the long-haul flights don’t land you straight on a second plane.

I personally feel that part of the off-the-map feeling, ultra-relaxed island-mode vacation feeling that you get from a place like NIHI Sumba is because it’s not easy to get there. Being that far from home does something to your mindset. And I love it. 

The Villas at NIHI Sumba

There are only 31 villas, and every one has its own pool. They range from one-bedroom villas for couples up to a four-plus-bedroom family estate.

We stayed in the Putri Hillrise, a two-bedroom villa that felt like a jungle treehouse. Think canopy beds, bougainvillea spilling over the walls, robes hung with fresh hibiscus, and an outdoor soaking tub that Hadley turned into her own private splash pool. The open-air bathroom reminded me of another favorite of mine, Six Senses Laamu.

Which NIHI Villa Should You Book?

Every villa at NIHI is completely different, and picking the right one can make or break your stay. The resort is spread across a huge hillside estate. Some villas sit right above the beach, some are perched on the hilltop with jaw-dropping views, and some are tucked into the jungle. Where you land decides your view, your privacy, and how far you walk to breakfast, the beach and the kids’ club.

The hillside is no joke. There are a lot of stairs, some of them steep, and while buggies are on call, you can end up waiting for one. If you’re traveling with little ones, grandparents or anyone who doesn’t love stairs, location matters more than almost anything else.

For honeymooners and couples: the one-bedroom villas, especially the honeymoon picks NIHI groups together: Marangga, Marangga Occy’s, Hillrise and Villa Rahasia.

For families: a two-bedroom villa like the Putri Hillrise we loved, or one of the Putri, Mandaka Sumba House or Raja Mandaka villas. A separate bedroom for the kids makes nap time and early bedtimes so much easier.

For bigger families and groups: the three-bedroom villas (Mamole Treehouse, Wulla Marapu and Raja Puncak) or the Marangga Family Estate for four bedrooms or more.

With only 31 villas, the good ones go fast for peak dates, so book early, and let me request the villa that fits your crew.

Why Book NIHI With a Travel Advisor

With every villa being so different, NIHI is one of those places where booking with a travel advisor really pays off. I know the property, and am very close with the team there, and I’ll match you to the villa that fits your trip, whether that’s a honeymoon, a family trip or a surf trip, before you ever get on the plane. You pay the same rate as booking on your own, and you get VIP perks when you book with me ($100 spending credits, complimentary breakfast, upgrade if available)

Ready to plan your NIHI trip? Start planning here and I’ll personally get back to you within 24 to 48 hours! You can also book yourself via our Hotel Booking Portal (password is always JETSETTERS) and your perks will automatically apply to your stay and I’ll personally VIP your reservation with the property team after you book. 

What’s Included at NIHI Sumba (It’s All-Inclusive)

NIHI is all-inclusive, which makes a remote island so much easier. Your stay includes:

• Three meals a day and all non-alcoholic drinks
• The Happiest Hour every evening, with free-flowing domestic beer and house wine
• A daily minibar restock, laundry and Wi-Fi
• Roundtrip airport transfers in the shared safari car
• Group yoga and meditation, padel and pickleball, paddleboarding and snorkeling (weather permitting)
• A tour of the Sumba Foundation’s projects

Extras like spa treatments, the Kaboku omakase dinner and off-site meals cost more.

Food and Dinner Events at NIHI

Every night there’s a different event or dinner plan, and with only 31 villas it feels social without ever feeling crowded. The weekly lineup includes a Jungle-Themed Dinner, a White Party on Saturdays (so fun!!!!), a long Friday lunch called “Hats On, Bottles Up” and Movie Night Under the Stars on Sundays. Our first night had a sushi station, live music and fireworks. There was live music every night somewhere on property – which I loved. One thing about us: if there is live music, we are dancing!

• Ombak: the main oceanfront restaurant, with sand floors, for breakfast and dinner
• Nio Beach Club: lunch by the pool overlooking the beach
• Boathouse: the sunset bar, with live music in the evening
• Kaboku: a seven-course Japanese omakase for just six guests (book ahead; not included in the rate)

wearing her favorite Kenny Flowers dresses always

The Horses at NIHI Sumba

The horses at NIHI are STUNNING. You see them right on the sand, and riding along the beach (and right into the surf) was a bucket-list moment for me. NIHI also offers swimming with horses, equine wellness sessions and a kids’ pony club.

What makes the horses even more special is how amazingly they’re cared for. NIHI’s horses are rescues, including retired local racehorses, and they’re trained with gentle, natural horsemanship built on trust. They graze every day, gallop down Nihiwatu Beach and swim in the ocean on their own time. The horsemen who care for them grew up in Sumba’s villages, where horses are part of everything culturally in Sumba.

NIHI’s care reaches far beyond its own stables. Through the Sumba Horse Project, the NIHI stable team and a local Sumbanese vet travel to villages across the island giving free veterinary care: deworming, wound, hoof and dental care, emergency treatment and feed for malnourished horses. They return to each village about every three months, and they’re raising money to build a dedicated veterinary clinic for Sumba. Every horse activity you book at NIHI sends a donation to the project, so your sunset ride is doing some good too.

The Riding & Racquet Club

NIHI’s newest addition is the (gorgeous!!!!!) Riding & Racquet Club, right on Nihiwatu Beach with the stables at the center of it all. Grab a coffee on the clubhouse terrace and watch the horses before your morning ride, then come back for a long lunch overlooking the paddocks. There’s NIHI’s first international-standard tennis court (horses wander past mid-rally, it’s so beautiful!), a thatched-roof clubhouse and bar, and a boutique stocked with pieces made with local Sumbanese artisans that you can only buy there. Monday nights are Bakar di Kandang Kuda, which means “grill at the horse stables,” an open-fire dinner by the stables under the stars.This was one of our favorite nights!!!! Also an adults-only beachfront pool overlooking the horses opens in January 2027.

Good to know: Sumbanese wild horses are smaller, so NIHI has weight limits to protect them: 85 kg (187 lbs) for beach rides and 90 kg (198 lbs) for swimming with horses. Wear leggings or long pants, socks and closed-toe shoes; helmets and boots are provided.

 

Surfing at NIHI: Occy’s Left

NIHI sits in front of Occy’s Left, one of the most famous waves in Asia. Surfing here is managed with a slot board at the surf hut (registered surfers only, and you stay in rotation). If you’ve never surfed, ask the surf team about lessons when you book.

Occy’s Left, also called God’s Left, is named after Australian surf legend Mark Occhilupo, who made the wave famous in the 1992 surf film The Green Iguana. It peels for around 300 meters over the reef right in front of the resort, with long, fast walls and hollow barrels. Waves this long and this consistent are rare, and lefts are especially loved by goofy-footers (surfers who ride with their right foot forward).

What surfers really come for is the empty lineup. NIHI caps the wave at 15 registered surfers a day, and only resort guests can surf it, so you’re sharing a world-class wave with a handful of people. Depending on the day, it can be intermediate surfer friendly, or much more advanced. There is also a beach with beginner-friendly waves and they definitely encourage you to try it no matter if you’ve ever surfed before or not! TropicSurf on property does a great job at beginner surf lessons. 

It’s a little pricey, which is good to know. A surf slot is IDR 2,600,000 per surfer per day plus 21% tax and service, which covers the jet ski out to the break and a locker, and it’s not part of NIHI’s all-inclusive rate. Slots are limited to one per room per day, and NIHI asks how many guests will be surfing when you pay your booking deposit, so plan ahead, especially in high season.

 If you’re newer to surfing, book a lesson on Nihiwatu Beach or at Coconut Cove, a calmer spot nearby where you can make a half day of it with breakfast or lunch. Private 90-minute lessons are IDR 5,300,000 for one person, with couple and group pricing too, and NIHI offers tandem surfing for little ones. Professional board rentals are IDR 1,200,000 per day.

The Nihioka Spa Safari

The spa is its own adventure at NIHI! This was hands down the experience that everyone told us we could NOT miss, and I’m so glad we listened. Nihioka Spa sits about 10 minutes by car from the main resort above a secluded cove, and the signature Spa Safari starts with a trek, a horseback ride or a scenic drive there before 2.5 or 5 hours of treatments (it was incredible)

On your way to the spa, you stop at local Sumbanese village with your guide, whether you’re driving or walking.

You’ll see the beautiful thatched peaked roofs Sumba is known for and the ancient stone tombs that sit right in the village, a reminder that many families here still follow Marapu, Sumba’s ancestral religion. Kids will run out to wave hello, and it’s one of those cultural moments that stays with you long after the spa day. You can purchase ikat weavings or local crafts you may want to bring home, but whether or not you purchase, some of your spa day price goes to supporting the village. If you love the village visit, NIHI also has a tour of the Sumba Foundation’s projects and schools (great if you have bigger kids to bring them to!), which bring clean water and schools to villages across the island.

After visiting the village, you arrive to the spa area which is one of the most insanely beautiful corners of the world I’ve ever been to. You will be given a menu of spa treatments and told to choose “as many as you want”. What!!!? And yes, one of the options is a ‘Massage with Horse” where a horse is roaming around you during the massage. 

     

after our treatments, we had this incredible beach all to ourselves!!!

 

Is NIHI Sumba Good for Families?

Yes!!!! if your family loves adventure and travel, we absolutely loved it. We went with our two toddlers, and we had the best time.

The NIHI Wildlings kids club is for ages 4 to 12 and runs 9 am to 4 pm with lunch and snacks. I will say the kids club is quite tucked away, which I didn’t love, so our kids mainly spent time with us at the pool and in the main area of the resort. But it was still nice to have! Lots of books and activities there. There’s a kids’ pony club, horse riding lessons, chocolate making and traditional ikat weaving, plus a baby turtle hatchery on property. Hadley loved the little turtle stuffy they gave her, and we were hoping to catch a hatching while we were there, but we didn’t! If you get lucky, you can watch them hatch and release to the ocean!

Here’s what families should know before booking:

• It’s a long journey. Plan the trip around it, with at least one night in Bali on each end. Ideally I’d combine it with Bali!
• Think about malaria risk. The NHS travel health service lists Sumba as a risk area for malaria, especially in rainy season, (Bali is low to no risk), so you can consider taking malaria pills before you go. We did not. We wore bug spray every day, and visited in dry season. The resort does fogging measures etc to minimize mosquitoes. But if you are the type to be very stressed about the risk, there might be better spots for you to feel your most relaxed. But if you are up for the adventure, and tend to go with the flow, this can be a great destination for you.
• Pick a two-bedroom villa. The space makes everything easier with little ones!

Is NIHI Sumba Good for a Honeymoon?

YES!!! For adventurous couples, NIHI is the honeymoon you’ll still be talking about your whole lives. VERY bucket list. You get your own pool villa, the Spa Safari, horses on the beach, sunset drinks at the Boathouse and that feeling of being at the edge of the world. It’s fab for a honeymoon. 

If you’re building a full Indonesia honeymoon, my Bali honeymoon guide and my comparison of Four Seasons vs. Capella vs. Mandapa in Bali are where I’d start. My favorite routing is a few nights at Mandapa in Ubud followed by NIHI to finish. I think that’s the perfect Bali + Sumba combo.

NIHI Sumba Review: The Honest Pros and Cons

What I loved: the off-the-map feeling, the horses, the villas with their own pools, the all-inclusive ease, the nightly events and how safe and comfortable a remote island felt with little kids.

What to know: getting there takes real effort, Sumba does have some malaria-risk areas, and this is a barefoot-luxe kind of place for travelers who love a little adventure, and thrive on that!

How to Book NIHI Sumba With Free VIP Perks

NIHI is a preferred partner hotel for me, so when you book through me you get the hotel’s best rate plus extra perks, at no extra cost to you. Since breakfast (and every other meal) is already included at NIHI, the perks go even further.

FAQ: NIHI Sumba

Where is NIHI Sumba?

On the south-west coast of Sumba, an island in eastern Indonesia, east of Bali. The resort sits on 2.5 km of private beach.

How do you get to NIHI Sumba?

Fly from Bali (DPS) to Tambolaka (TMC) on Sumba, then take the roughly 90-minute transfer to the resort. The shared safari car transfer is included in your stay. I hiiiighly recommend booking your domestic flights through NIHI for ease (I can help you as your travel advisor) it simplifies everything.

Is NIHI Sumba all-inclusive?

Yes. Three meals a day, non-alcoholic drinks, the nightly Happiest Hour, airport transfers, laundry and many activities are included. Spa treatments, the Kaboku omakase and off-site meals cost extra.

How many villas does NIHI Sumba have?

31 villas, each with a private pool, from one bedroom up to a four-plus-bedroom family estate.

Does NIHI Sumba have a kids club?

Yes. NIHI Wildlings is for ages 4 to 12 and runs 9 am to 4 pm with lunch and snacks.

Is NIHI Sumba good for toddlers?

We had an incredible stay with our two toddlers. Choose a two-bedroom villa, plan for the long journey, and get travel insurance for medical evacuation JUST in case! (hopefully you will never need it, and there is a doctor on site 24/7 on the island, but it made me feel better to get it – as your luxury travel advisor, I can always quote you travel insurance, it’s easy to add on!)

Is there malaria on Sumba?

Yes. The NHS travel health service lists Sumba as a high-risk area for malaria, while Bali is low to no risk. We wore bug spray every day.

Where does NIHI Sumba rank in the top hotels in the world?

NIHI is #35 on The World’s 50 Best Hotels list for 2026 and was #10 in 2024. Travel + Leisure named it the #1 Hotel in the World in 2016 and 2017.

Is NIHI Sumba Worth It?

For the right traveler, absolutely!!!!! If you love barefoot luxury, being fully off the map and still want your own pool villa, horses on the beach and a team that makes it easy as a family, NIHI is worth every cent! it’s also ESPECIALLY amazing if you love surfing, or horses!

Fill out this inquiry form here and I’ll help you plan your trip, or you can go directly to my travel portal and see my exclusive travel advisor rates and book yourself with all of my perks included! The password is always JETSETTERS (save this page to your bookmarks for future trips!)